Tatsu Shinozaki has cultivated oysters and scallops since 1957. His father was an oysterman, and his son continues the tradition. They raise the shells in the Funkawan Bay, located about 40km east of Niseko on the Pacific Coast.
I was introduced to Shinozaki-san by president of a local building company, one that has done a lot of work in Niseko over the past 5 years. We had mentioned to the President that we were interested in seeing how the oysters were raised, and this led to an immediate invitation to tour of the oyster fields around Funkawan Bay. In Japan, introductions are everything, and this one was a pearler.
Funkawan is the expanse of water nestled in the south eastern “neck” of Hokkaido. The bay is fed by nutrient rich waters from the Nukibetsu river, which derive minerals from an active volcano, Mt. Usu, hence the name “Volcano Bay”.
As Shinozaki-san explained, the oystermen here use the long line technique (“Mimisuri” or “Ears fishing methods”) to cultivate oysters.* They set larvae or seed to long ropes which are suspended about a foot off the ocean floor. When they are big enough, at about 1 year, Shinozaki-san individually strings the shells via the hinge to the rope. All this work just for 15 seconds of fame in the Ezo Oyster Bar!
As his son moored the boat, Shinozaki-san pulled up one of the long lines, and detached a cluster of the oysters.
The oysters grow to around 100gms, much bigger than the average Sydney rock, which is about 50gms. This makes them ideal for steaming or grilling as Kilpatricks, but also good for half shell.
Even though it was August, when oysters are supposedly gamey and out of season, he thought they were fine to eat -- and who were we to argue? This was the first time I had ever eaten an oyster straight from the ocean and also, incidentally, without lemon. It was like a big baggy mouthful of saltwater, followed by a sweetness that revealed itself after chewing.
Satisfied that we knew a bit about more about the techniques and the quality, we motored off to the scallop fields. For the scallops, he uses a technique of hanging them in deep water in nets that look like immense Japanese lanterns. (Who else but the Japanese would think of this?)
This allows them to mature individually producing richer, fuller bodied scallops. He first pulled up the baby scallops, which were around 1cm diameter. So tiny. So perfectly shaped. (I have subsequently seen these in Miso soups and served up as decoration in the oyster bar “Reims” in Suskino) We then motored over to the 2 year old scallops. The difference in size was staggering. From 1cm to around 20cm diameter in 2 years! Using a clam opener, Shinozaki-san opened it so deftly that he may as well have done it behind his back! He removed the gills and intestines and viola, produced a picture perfect scallop ready for tasting.
I deferred while Keiko and President tried one, but have to admit was very glad when my turn came around. There was something definitely sexy about what I was looking at. Plump, soft and glistening. It had no other purpose than to be devoured and enjoyed, which I did with pleasure.
Lucky for all of us, Shinozaki sent us home with a crate load of scallops and oysters that day. We had some Japanese guests around that afternoon and while the husband wasn’t an oyster eater, his wife was. The reaction when she ate it was priceless and the sort that only oysters can induce. She gulped it down and almost immediately went into convulsions of happiness. (I hope her non-oyster eating husband makes her this happy!) And its all due to the hard work from the Oysterman. Mr. Shinozaki. Up every morning at 3:30am and on the water till 6am to ensure the freshest oysters and scallops for the patrons of Ezo Seafoods. Thank you Shinozaki-san!
*In the west, oysters are predominantly raised in floating nurseries or on the bottom of the ocean. The Japanese use totally different techniques, that are actually being adopted more and more in the US and Australia.
