Shiriuchi Oysters
Shiriuchi is one of the dozens of small fishing communities to be found around the southern tip of Hokkaido. Its well known as the birthplace of Enka singing superstar Kitajima Saburo (like the Frank Sinatra of Japan), and also for its oysters. I drove down from Niseko for 4 hours through rain this week to learn a bit more for myself about the oysters and the area.
Shiriuchi oysters aren't as well known as Akkeshi's or Saroma oysters, which patrons of Ezo Seafoods got acquainted with last season. There are several reasons. Firstly, the local fishing cooperative don't ship them to Tokyo, to eliminate consumption of oysters that are more than 3 days out of the water. The other reason is that they have only just started using the name "Shiriuchi" to sell the oysters, I suppose following the lead of Akkeshi oysters which have successfully created a brand name out of Akkeshi.
The oysters are grown in the ocean without any natural geographic protection. They are raised as spat in Miyagi and transferred to Shiriuchi at the age of around 6 months. The oyster season is from November to May but varies, interestingly, on whether typhoons blow through the Shiriuchi area. If the "divine wind" does blow, this induces the oysters to go on a feeding binge, which results is oysters ready by Christmas. But the past several years, the typhoons have veered east of Shiriuchi, resulting in oysters that aren't plump enough to be sold as "Shiriuchi" oysters until February! Who would have thought farmers would actually pray for typhoons! On the other hand, if the typhoons are too strong, this can play havoc with the oyster long lines, so its a double edged sword.
I was prompted to hunt these down when a patron of Ezo Seafoods declared that "Shiriuchi oysters were superior to my stock." This got me intrigued, but when I went to acquire Shiriuchi oysters I couldn't find any suppliers, they weren't sold online, they are hard to fine in supermarkets, and they aren't even available at the Sapporo Wholesale market. I was told "you'd better go down to Shiriuchi and find them for yourself." Hence the belated drive down to Shiriuchi this week. Well, I couldn't get them in time for last season, but, typhoons willing, I'll have the Shiriuchi in stock for my loyal customers at Ezo Seafoods by Christmas. For those that don't want to leave it to chance, let me know in advance and I'll time their arrival in Niseko with yours! Or I can ship some down to the mainland. Just get in touch.
Sayonara
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